With the right money, is it too much to ask for a hotel you don’t have to leave in search of good food? To many, it seems the answer is yes. These, however, will have you coming back for breakfast, lunch, and dinner.
Holborn Dining Room at Rosewood London
Once Calum Franklin and his pies showed up, the Rosewood’s elegant restaurant became a compelling reason to visit whether you’re a guest or not. Think of what he plates up as the not-so-humble pie: potato, caramelised onion, and Comté, encased in an ornate pastry and with a parsley sauce, should give you some idea. If you’re not into pastry, the steaks, seafood and charcuterie should keep you entertained.
The Goring Dining Room
If you care much about the Royals, this is where the Middletons wined and dined the night before Kate’s wedding (accordingly it’s, as one luxury publication puts it, ‘reassuringly expensive’). If you don’t, then all is not lost – the food, especially breakfast, is on point.
Ella Canta at the InterContinental Park Lane
‘Think of the taco, how it’s the shape of the sun. It’s democratic. It’s part of our soul.’ Such is what Marta Ortiz, the brains behind Ella Canta, once told me. And such is kind of food-romance you can expect at her first venture outside of her native Mexico. Just like the name (‘She Sings’), vibrancy, spirit, and vivaciousness is what the restaurant’s going for.
Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester
No big deal. That’s what it feels like now that Alain Ducasse’s London outpost has held three Michelin stars for eight years straight. Surely sustaining such an accolade isn’t as effortless as this place makes it seem, but maybe that’s why disciples of fine dining regard it to be a living classic from living legend Alain Ducasse.
Berners Tavern at London Edition
Berners Tavern is a beautiful thing. An 18ft high dining room, covered head to toe in ornate period plasterwork, chandeliers, and framed art. If the restaurant were a cake – and by God it looks like one – you’d wouldn’t think twice about tucking in. Just remember to save room for the actual food – the venison Wellington in particular.
Angler at South Place Hotel
‘Sustainable’ has become a huge buzzword among restaurants, especially at newcomers like Brat, Cornerstone, and Neptune. If you didn’t think it noteworthy before, perhaps this is why Angler seems more relevant now. Their seafood, be it lobster, sardine, squid, or what-have-you, is sourced from small fishing boats off the Cornish coast.
Galvin at Windows at Hilton Park Lane
One of the best views of London happens to be from one of the better fine dining restaurants in London. Splash out on the menu prestige or try a selection of head chef Joo Won’s Korean-slanted dishes, like the kimchi risotto with a slow-cooked egg.
The Ritz Restaurant
What was seemingly playing up to the notorious image of the hotel restaurant – caught in a somewhat exclusive and/or predictable formula of afternoon tea and silver service – has come on in leaps and bounds in the past few years. You might say, little has actually changed – the restaurant has always seemed a bit over the top. Now just a bit more delightfully so.
This is a guest post from freelance food journalist Hugh Thomas. He’s contributed to Foodism, Time Out, Great British Chefs, and is part of British Street Food’s small team of vigilant writers. Find him on twitter @hughwrites.